Colombia, what's new, old man?

It's always a treat to land in Colombia. Bogotá welcomes us warmly. There, we make a mandatory stop to acclimatize to the altitude while enjoying a coffee at Azahar or refueling at Salvo Patria. Without a doubt, Colombia is a land of contrasts, defined by the great Andean mountain ranges that run from north to south. Since 2017, our visits to this coffee-producing region have focused on a very specific area: the department of Huila, and specifically the southeastern part of the country. During this time, we have maintained relationships with the producers in this region, sharing knowledge to help them improve the quality of their coffees and the price they receive for them.

Colombian brand coffees

Colombia is the quintessential coffee-growing country. Nearly 540,000 Colombian families depend on coffee production for their livelihood. The vast majority of producers live on their own plots or farms, which average no more than two hectares. This creates a highly flexible coffee sector with a very strong foundation, thanks to the work of the National Federation of Coffee Growers. This Federation emerged in 1927 when Colombian coffee growers decided to unite and create an organization to represent them nationally and internationally, while also safeguarding their well-being and improving their quality of life. This example of exceptional national unity has led to the development of the coffee business like no other country in Latin America.

Colombian coffee is the foundation of fine or washed coffees on the stock market and is among the most highly valued internationally. Lots originating in Colombia, to be exported as 'Café de Colombia' (Colombian Coffee), must pass a series of controls that ensure the coffee is free of defects. Lower-quality coffees or those that deviate from the standard profile, such as fermented coffees (natural, honey, or anaerobic), are typically exported as 'Product of Colombia'. This detail has made the Colombia brand a national and international symbol.

Domestic marketing and some experiments at the source

Regarding domestic marketing, Colombian coffee has many unique characteristics. Unlike other countries such as Ethiopia, where small producers market dried coffee cherries, here parchment coffee reigns supreme. This means washed and dried coffee ready to be hulled and graded for export. This point is fundamental to understanding the potential of the quality, since the producer controls virtually all aspects of their coffee's success. They are responsible for the land investment, the varieties they cultivate, the fermentation process, and the drying until the parchment reaches the optimal point of dryness.

For this reason, we've dedicated ourselves to continuous improvement, helping producers find the profile we were looking for in washed, honey, and natural coffees. The result is like being in Disney World for Right Side Coffee. We've gone from clean, elegant, and juicy washed coffees, like the Caturra produced by Don Ananías Silvestre, to developing our own fermentation recipes. Our goal is always to allow the fermentation process to fully develop the variety, as in the experiments we conducted with the Contreras Brothers.

Direct dealings with producers of Colombian origin

Regarding our direct dealings in the country, last harvest we began working with a small group of producers in the municipality of Guadalupe. We took advantage of this trip to visit them and monitor the improvements at the source. These improvements include farm-level upgrades, infrastructure improvements, and enhanced coffee processing practices, both wet and dry.

Negotiations with our producers are conducted on a per-package basis. This allows us to ensure they receive the agreed-upon price and that no intermediaries can take advantage of the situation. Coocentral, the cooperative we work closely with in this region, plays a vital role here. Together, we also provide them with agronomic technical assistance to ensure their crops are productive in the long term.

The group of producers we work with has become legendary. We started roasting Don Ananías's batch for filter brewing, developing a powerful, fruity character. It's reminiscent of Kenya, but with a sweet vanilla base. The Contreras Brothers delighted us with a washed coffee that, in espresso, unfolds like an apple caramel, dense on the palate. And we reconnected with an old friend: Don Arturo Avilés at Superauto, with a robust cup where cocoa and red berries reign supreme. Three washed coffees to kick off the Colombian season with what they do best: clean, expressive coffees that will leave no one indifferent.