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El café en Nicaragua
August 2021
5 min

Coffee farming is very important to the country; 15% of the population depends on it for their livelihood . Unfortunately, economic sustainability is lacking because the market is controlled by large exporters who exert significant pressure on small producers, who receive only one payment per year for their harvest. Furthermore, the pressure to obtain cash often forces producers to sell below market value .

In our case, we set a price determined by the quality of the product and leaving aside the market fluctuations/speculations mainly due to the entry of investment funds that seek in raw materials a safe haven value and consequently, an increase in price due to the increase in demand even if this is not real.

That said, the producers we work with receive between 2 and 4 times the average price of the last 10 years on the NY futures market, which regulates the Arabica species.

Nicaragua is the unsung hero of Central American coffee. Always ahead of its neighbors Costa Rica and Panama, the quality of its coffee is exceptional . Its largest production is concentrated in the Matagalpa region, although we have found the most interesting coffees in the country in the Nueva Segovia region, at altitudes exceeding 2,000 meters above sea level.

In 2012, after the devastating coffee rust outbreak (a type of fungus) that struck Nicaragua and Central America, efforts began to address the problem by developing new, fungus-resistant varieties. All of these varieties contain Timor hybrids in their genetic makeup, thus exhibiting robust genetics. Traditionally cultivated varieties include Caturra, Catuai, Bourbon, Maragogype, and Pacamara . The Maracaturra variety, a product of natural hybridization between Caturra and Maragogype, offers excellent results in terms of yield, quality, and disease resistance. This is one of our personal favorites when working with Nicaraguan coffee, due to the variety's exclusivity and its exceptional organoleptic qualities. In recent years, exotic varieties such as SL28 or Geisha have been incorporated, albeit in very small quantities, while hybrid varieties like H3, Marseille, or Central American varieties are reproducing rapidly and being promoted by influential market players. These latter varieties are not part of our plans to include them on our menu due to the low quality and poor experience they would provide our customers.

Traditionally, coffees are washed throughout Central America . To minimize production and harvest management bottlenecks, fermentation is typically as rapid as possible, as is the drying process, which utilizes large patios exposed to the sun with large quantities of coffee drying aggressively and continuously.

In our case, we've actively participated in changing the mindset of coffee processing facilities (that's how coffee processing plants are known, shifting from fresh beans to exportable beans or green coffee). Together with our partners, we saw an increase in quality by using a less aggressive drying method: African raised beds to keep the product off the ground and optimize the process, thus improving quality. We also applied shade to extend the drying time, thereby increasing the coffee's shelf life and enhancing its quality. The same applies to fermentation, which we've increased from 8 hours to a maximum of 80 in controlled atmospheres and 36 in spontaneous aerobic fermentation. When we started this process, people asked us if we were crazy; today, it's our daily practice.

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